Every golfer ends up in trouble: behind a tree, buried in long grass, sitting in a divot or on bare, hard ground. What separates good scores from bad ones is not avoiding trouble altogether, but getting out of it without making things worse. Most big numbers come from a second mistake made while trying to recover from the first. Learn a handful of recovery shots, and the discipline to choose the right one, and you will save several shots a round.
Directions are for right-handed golfers. Left-handers should reverse left and right.
The golden rule: take your medicine
When you are in trouble, ask three questions:
- What is the safest way back into play?
- What are the chances of the heroic shot coming off? Be honest: if you would pull it off fewer than seven times in ten, it is probably not the right choice.
- What happens if it goes wrong? Hitting a tree and bouncing further into trouble, or into a penalty area, turns a bogey into a triple.
Most of the time, the right answer is to chip back to the fairway, to a spot that leaves a comfortable next shot. Read golf course management.
Under trees: the punch shot
When branches are in the way, you need to keep the ball low.
- Club: a less-lofted club, such as a 5-, 6- or 7-iron, depending on how far you want the ball to run and how low it must stay.
- Ball position: back in your stance, towards your trail foot.
- Hands: ahead of the ball, which reduces the loft further.
- Weight: favouring your lead side.
- Swing: a shorter, three-quarter backswing and an abbreviated, low finish. Keep your wrists firm.
The ball will come out low and run a long way. Pick a gap that is big enough and aim for the fairway, not the green, unless the line is wide open. Practise a few punch shots on the range so you know how far they fly and run.
Over trees
When you need to get the ball up quickly, choose enough loft to clear the obstacle comfortably.
- Club: a wedge or short iron. Check the height of the obstacle against the loft: stand on the ball's line and lay the club face on the ground, stepping on it; the angle of the shaft gives a rough idea of the launch.
- Ball position: slightly forward.
- Swing: a full, committed swing; do not try to scoop the ball up. The loft does the work.
If in doubt, go around or under, not over.
Around trees: curving the ball
If there is a gap to one side, you can curve the ball around the obstacle with a draw or fade. Remember that lofted clubs curve less, and curving the ball from the rough is unpredictable. Read how to hit a draw and a fade.
From the rough
Deep rough
Long, thick grass wraps around the club, closing the face and slowing it down.
- Club: a lofted club, such as a 9-iron, wedge or a lofted hybrid, which is better at cutting through grass. Read hybrid golf clubs explained.
- Set-up: ball in the middle of the stance, slightly firmer grip pressure.
- Swing: steeper, with an earlier wrist hinge, to reduce how much grass gets between the club face and the ball.
- Target: the nearest safe area of fairway.
Light rough and "flyers"
When the ball sits up in light rough, grass gets trapped between the club face and the ball, reducing spin. The ball comes out low-spinning and can fly and run further than normal: a "flyer". Take less club, or play for the ball to land short of the green and run on.
Ball sitting up very high
When the ball is perched on top of thick grass, there is a danger of sliding the club under it. Hover the club at address rather than grounding it, and sweep the ball away.
Bad lies on the fairway
In a divot
- Ball back in the stance.
- Hands ahead and weight forward.
- Hit down firmly, with a slightly shorter follow-through.
- Take one club more, as the ball tends to come out lower and run.
Hardpan and bare ground
On firm, bare ground, there is little margin for error: the club bounces easily, causing thin shots.
- Use a club with less bounce, or a less lofted club and a chip-and-run.
- Ball slightly back and hands forward.
- Hit the ball first with a shallow, controlled swing.
- Around the green, a putter is often the safest option.
Read how to hit the ball solidly.
Pine straw and leaves
Loose leaves and pine needles are loose impediments: you can usually remove them, but be very careful not to move your ball, which would cost a penalty. Do not ground the club heavily. Hover it, and play the ball as cleanly as possible.
Fairway bunkers
- Check the lip. Choose a club with enough loft to clear it comfortably.
- Dig your feet in slightly for stability, and grip down on the club by the same amount.
- Ball slightly back of normal.
- Quiet lower body, a three-quarter swing, and catch the ball cleanly before the sand.
- Take one more club than normal, and swing smoothly.
If the ball is close to a steep lip or plugged, just take a wedge and get out. Read how to hit bunker shots for greenside sand.
Uneven lies and awkward stances
Slopes change how the ball flies. Read our full guide to how to play uneven lies.
For an awkward stance next to a tree, wall or fence, you may be able to:
- Play left-handed with the club turned upside down, or with the back of a club face.
- Play a one-handed backhand shot away from the obstacle.
- Kneel to play under low branches, choking well down the club.
Keep these shots short and simple, and take a few practice swings first, checking that the club will not hit anything hard on the way through.
When to declare the ball unplayable
You may declare your ball unplayable anywhere on the course except in a penalty area. For one penalty stroke, you may:
- Stroke and distance: play again from where you played your last shot.
- Back-on-the-line relief: drop on a line behind the ball, keeping the ball's spot between you and the hole.
- Lateral relief: drop within two club-lengths of the ball, no nearer the hole.
In a bunker, the same options apply, but back-on-the-line and lateral drops must be in the bunker, unless you take an extra stroke to drop outside the bunker on the back-on-the-line option. Read golf rules every golfer should know.
Practising trouble shots
- Hit punch shots, low and high, on the range.
- Practise from rough, divots and bare patches at the edge of the practice area.
- Play a few practice holes deliberately from bad lies, where allowed.
- Learn your distances with each recovery shot. Read golf practice at home and our driving range practice plan.
Frequently asked questions
What club should I use to punch out from under trees?
Usually a 5-, 6- or 7-iron, with the ball back and hands forward. Some golfers use a hybrid. Choose the club that keeps the ball under the branches and runs to a safe spot.
What is a flyer lie?
A ball in light rough where grass gets between the ball and the club face, reducing spin. The ball flies and runs further than expected.
How do I hit out of deep rough?
Take a lofted club, grip a little firmer, play the ball in the middle of your stance and swing steeply to reduce how much grass the club catches. Aim for the nearest safe fairway.
When should I take an unplayable lie?
When the shot you face has a poor chance of getting you back into a good position, or risks a much higher score. A one-stroke penalty is often cheaper than two poor shots.
Can I break branches to make room for my swing?
No. You may not improve your area of intended swing by moving, bending or breaking growing things, except as you fairly take your stance or make your stroke.
The bottom line
Trouble is part of golf, but disaster is optional. Choose the safest shot that gets you back into play, learn the punch shot, adapt your technique to rough, divots, hardpan and fairway bunkers, and know when an unplayable drop is the smart move. Fewer second mistakes means fewer big numbers. For more ways to save strokes, read how to break 90.