Once you can hit the ball reasonably straight, the next step is learning to curve it on purpose. A draw curves gently from right to left; a fade curves gently from left to right (for right-handed golfers). Being able to hit both lets you work the ball around doglegs and trees, hold greens in a crosswind, and aim away from trouble. And understanding what makes the ball curve is also the key to fixing an unwanted slice or hook.
Directions are for right-handed golfers. Left-handers should reverse left and right.
What makes the ball curve?
Two things at impact control the ball's direction:
- Club face direction. The ball starts mostly in the direction the club face points at impact.
- Swing path. The direction the club head is travelling at impact.
When the face and path point in different directions, the ball spins on a tilted axis and curves. It curves away from the path, towards the direction of the face.
| Shot | Face at impact | Path | Curve |
|---|---|---|---|
| Straight | Square to path and target | Along the target line | None |
| Draw | Slightly right of target, closed to path | In to out (right of target) | Right to left |
| Fade | Slightly left of target, open to path | Out to in (left of target) | Left to right |
| Hook | Closed too much | Usually in to out | Sharp right to left |
| Slice | Open too much | Usually out to in | Sharp left to right |
A draw and a hook, and a fade and a slice, have the same cause: the difference is only the amount. A controlled shot has a small difference between face and path; a wild shot has a large one. Read how to fix a slice and how to fix a hook.
Draw or fade: the pros and cons
| Draw | Fade | |
|---|---|---|
| Ball flight | Lower, more penetrating | Higher |
| Roll | More roll after landing | Lands softer, stops quicker |
| Distance | Usually a little longer | Usually a little shorter |
| In the wind | Holds its line better into the wind | Rides a left-to-right wind well |
| Control | Can turn into a hook under pressure | Easier to control for many golfers |
| Useful for | Right-to-left doglegs, extra distance, pins on the left | Left-to-right doglegs, holding firm greens, pins on the right |
How to hit a draw
Set-up
- Pick a start line to the right of the target: the point where you want the ball to start.
- Aim your feet, hips and shoulders along that start line, to the right of the target.
- Aim the club face at the target, which means it is slightly closed to your body line.
- Ball position: normal, or very slightly back.
- Grip: your normal grip, perhaps a fraction stronger (hands turned slightly to the right on the grip).
Swing
Swing along your body line. Because your body is aimed right, the club travels from inside to outside relative to the target line. The face, pointing at the target, is closed to that path, so the ball starts slightly right and draws back. Feel the club swinging out towards right field and the forearms rotating freely through impact; read how to release the golf club.
How to hit a fade
Set-up
- Pick a start line to the left of the target.
- Aim your feet, hips and shoulders along that line, to the left.
- Aim the club face at the target, slightly open to your body line.
- Ball position: normal, or very slightly forward.
- Grip: your normal grip, perhaps a fraction weaker.
Swing
Swing along your body line, which sends the club slightly out to in relative to the target. With the face open to that path, the ball starts left and fades back. Feel as though you hold the club face a little longer through impact, with a slightly shorter, higher finish.
Common mistakes
- Aiming the face at the start line. If the face and body both point right, the ball goes straight right. The face must point closer to the target than the path does.
- Over-doing it. Aiming 30 yards right and swinging hard at it usually produces a hook or a push.
- Manipulating the hands. Flipping the wrists to force a draw, or holding the face wide open for a fade, is inconsistent. Let the set-up do most of the work.
- Poor alignment. Use alignment sticks in practice to check your body and face aim. Read golf alignment: how to aim.
Drills to learn shot shaping
1. The gate drill
Place two tees or headcovers just outside the ball to make a gate a few inches wide, angled slightly to the right of the target for a draw, or to the left for a fade. Swing through the gate without touching it. It trains the path you want.
2. Alignment-stick path drill
Lay one alignment stick on the ground along your body line and another pointing at the target. Hit shots with the face aimed at the target stick and your body along the other. Swap the angle to switch between draw and fade.
3. Half-swing shapes
Hit half shots with a 7-iron, alternating a small draw and a small fade. At low speed, you will feel how the face and path combine. Gradually lengthen the swing.
4. Tree or flag drill
On the range, pick a flag or post. Try to start the ball to one side of it and curve it back towards it. Then do the same in the other direction.
Shaping with different clubs
- Driver and fairway woods curve the most, because they have less loft and so more sidespin relative to backspin. Small changes go a long way.
- Mid-irons curve moderately and are the best clubs to learn with.
- Short irons and wedges curve very little. Do not try to shape wedges much; focus on distance control instead.
On the course: when to shape the ball
- Doglegs. A draw for a hole turning left, a fade for a hole turning right, with more fairway to land on.
- Trouble on one side. Start the ball at the safe side and curve it towards the middle, so a ball that does not curve still finds safety.
- Pin positions. Draw the ball towards a left pin and fade it towards a right pin, starting at the centre of the green.
- Wind. A draw into a right-to-left wind runs a long way; a fade holds its line against a right-to-left wind.
- Trees. Curve the ball around a tree when there is no straight line to the green.
Most good golfers have one stock shot they trust under pressure, and play the other only when the hole demands it. Read golf course management.
Frequently asked questions
Is a draw better than a fade?
Neither is better. A draw tends to go further and run; a fade lands softer and is easier to control for many golfers. Choose the shape that comes most naturally to you as your stock shot.
Why do I keep hooking when I try to hit a draw?
Usually because the face is too closed to the path, often from flipping the hands or aiming the body too far right. Reduce the difference between body aim and face aim, and let the set-up do the work.
Can a beginner learn to shape shots?
Beginners should first develop a consistent, reasonably straight shot. Once your contact is reliable, small draws and fades are a great next step.
Does ball position change the shape?
A little. The ball further back tends to start right and favour a draw; the ball further forward tends to start left and favour a fade. Change aim first; use ball position as a small extra adjustment.
Can a ball launch monitor help?
Yes. Many launch monitors show club path and face angle, so you can see exactly what creates your shot shape. Read golf training aids and simulators.
The bottom line
Curving the ball on purpose comes down to one principle: the ball starts where the face points and curves away from the path. Aim your body along the path you want, aim the face at the target, and make your normal swing. Start with small curves, practise both shapes on the range, and pick a reliable stock shot for the course. For more swing advice, read golf swing fundamentals and golf tips to play better.