For many golfers, a slight draw — a shot that curves gently from right to left for a right-hander — is the dream ball flight. It flies powerfully, runs on landing and looks like the shot of a good player. But when that gentle draw turns into a hook — a shot that curves sharply left, dives out of the air and runs into trouble — it becomes one of the most destructive shots in golf.
Hooks tend to affect improving and better players more than beginners, who more often slice. They are often the sign of a golfer who has learned to release the club and swing from the inside — and then overdone it. The good news is that, like the slice, the hook has a small number of clear causes, and each one can be fixed.
Draw vs hook: what is the difference?
| Shot | Ball flight (right-hander) | Usually caused by |
|---|---|---|
| Draw | Starts slightly right of target, curves gently back to the target | Clubface slightly closed to an in-to-out path |
| Hook | Curves sharply left, often finishing well left of target | Clubface very closed to the path |
| Pull-hook | Starts left and curves further left | Clubface closed to the target and to the path |
| Push-hook | Starts right and hooks sharply left | Path far to the right, face closed to the path |
Understanding which type of hook you hit helps you find the cause.
The ball-flight basics
Two things determine where the ball goes:
- Clubface direction at impact — mainly controls where the ball starts.
- The relationship between the clubface and the swing path — controls how the ball curves.
A hook happens when the clubface is closed relative to the path. The more closed it is, the more the ball curves left.
- Push-hooks usually come from a path that swings too far to the right (too much "in-to-out"), with the face closed to that path.
- Pull-hooks usually come from a face closed to the target, often from a strong grip or from flipping the hands.
Why hooks are so costly
- They fly low and run, often into rough, trees or out of bounds.
- They are hard to control — a slight change in timing produces a big change in curve.
- They get worse under pressure, as the hands become more active.
- They lose carry distance, making it hard to clear hazards.
Step 1: Check your grip
A strong grip — where both hands are turned too far to the right on the handle — makes it easy for the clubface to close through impact.
Signs your grip is too strong
- You can see three or four knuckles on your lead (left) hand at address.
- The "V" formed by the thumb and forefinger of each hand points outside your trail (right) shoulder.
- Your trail hand sits very much under the handle.
The fix
Turn both hands slightly to the left on the grip, into a more neutral position:
- Two to two-and-a-half knuckles visible on your lead hand.
- The V's pointing roughly between your chin and trail shoulder.
A small grip change can feel strange at first but make a big difference. See how to grip a golf club.
Step 2: Check your alignment
Many golfers who hook aim their body well to the right to "allow" for the hook. That encourages a path even further to the right — and a bigger hook.
The fix
- Lay an alignment stick on the ground along your toes and another along the target line.
- Set your feet, hips and shoulders parallel to the target line.
- Check your shoulders — closed shoulders (aiming right) are a common cause of an in-to-out path.
Step 3: Check your ball position
A ball positioned too far back in your stance means you strike it while the club is still travelling out to the right, encouraging push-hooks.
The fix
- Driver: opposite your lead heel.
- Fairway woods and hybrids: a little inside the lead heel.
- Mid irons: slightly forward of centre.
- Short irons: around the centre.
Step 4: Keep your body rotating through impact
One of the most common causes of a hook is a body that stops turning in the downswing. When the hips and chest stall, the arms and hands overtake the body and flip the clubface closed.
Feel the right sequence
- Start the downswing with a shift and turn of the lower body.
- Keep your chest turning towards the target through impact.
- Finish facing the target with your belt buckle and chest pointing at it.
Drills for rotation
- The hold-off finish: make swings where you deliberately hold the clubface off through the follow-through, with your chest rotating and the face pointing slightly upwards at waist height.
- Pump drill: swing to the top, start down to waist height focusing on turning your hips and chest, return to the top, then swing through with continuous rotation.
- Feet together: hitting balls with your feet close together forces your body to rotate in balance rather than relying on the hands.
Step 5: Fix an excessive in-to-out path
Golfers who have worked hard to cure a slice sometimes overcorrect and swing too far from the inside, with the club travelling well to the right through impact.
Signs
- Divots that point well to the right of target.
- Shots that start right and hook back across (push-hooks).
- A feeling of "getting stuck" with the club behind you in the downswing.
Drills for path
- Gate drill: place two headcovers or tees just outside the ball and just behind it on the inside, creating a gate. Swing through without hitting either, encouraging a straighter path.
- Alignment stick path: lay a stick on the ground pointing at the target, just beyond the ball. Swing so the club travels along the stick through impact rather than out to the right.
- Feel a more "left" finish: feel as though you swing through towards the left of the target after impact, letting the club come round your body.
Step 6: Quiet your hands
Overactive hands — flipping or rolling the wrists through impact — close the face quickly.
Drills for the hands
- Half-swing punch shots: with a mid-iron, make half swings with a short, low finish, keeping the back of your lead hand facing the target through impact.
- Lead-hand-only swings: short swings with only your lead hand teach a stable clubface.
- Lighter grip pressure: squeezing the grip creates tension that makes the hands flip. Aim for a moderate grip pressure.
Driver-specific hooks
- Tee height: a very high tee can encourage a steep, in-to-out path. Tee the ball so about half of it sits above the top of the driver face.
- Clubface settings: adjustable drivers can be set with a closed face or draw weighting. A more neutral setting can reduce a hook.
- Loft: lower-lofted drivers tend to show more curvature; a little more loft can help.
Equipment that can contribute to a hook
- Draw-biased clubs — designed to help slicers — can make a hook worse.
- Grips that are too thin can make the hands more active.
- Shafts that are too flexible for your swing speed can contribute to closing the face. See golf shaft flex guide.
- Lie angles that are too upright cause the toe to sit up, pointing the face left at impact.
A fitting can check all of these. See custom golf club fitting.
Diagnose with feedback
- Film your swing from face-on and down-the-line. See golf swing fundamentals.
- Check your divots — direction and depth.
- Use impact tape — with woods, strikes towards the toe add hook spin (the "gear effect"), so a hook can come from strike location rather than swing path. Impact tape shows you which.
- Use a launch monitor to see face angle and path numbers. See golf training aids and simulators.
A four-week hook-fixing plan
| Week | Focus | Drills |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Grip, alignment and ball position | Mirror checks, alignment sticks |
| 2 | Body rotation | Pump drill, feet-together, hold-off finish |
| 3 | Path | Gate drill, alignment stick path |
| 4 | Hands and transfer | Punch shots, lead-hand swings, on-course practice |
Practise each week with a structured session such as our driving range practice plan.
Course management while you fix it
- Aim down the right side and let the ball turn back.
- Favour clubs you can control — perhaps a 3-wood or hybrid off the tee instead of the driver.
- Avoid holes where the hook brings trouble into play, choosing safer lines.
- Play smooth, three-quarter shots under pressure, when hands tend to get more active.
For more strategy, see club selection.
Hook vs slice: two sides of the same coin
Many golfers swing between a slice and a hook as they make changes. Both come from a mismatch between face and path:
- Slice: face open to the path.
- Hook: face closed to the path.
If you are fixing a slice, beware of overcorrecting. Read how to fix a slice for the opposite problem.
Frequently asked questions
Why do I hook my driver but not my irons?
The driver has less loft and a longer shaft, which magnifies any face-to-path mismatch. Ball position, tee height and adjustable settings also play a role.
Can a strong grip cause a hook?
Yes. A strong grip makes it easier to close the clubface through impact and is one of the most common causes of a hook.
What is the difference between a draw and a hook?
A draw curves gently and finishes on target. A hook curves sharply and finishes well left of target.
Should I stop releasing my hands to stop hooking?
Not completely — a natural release is essential. The aim is to keep your body rotating so the hands release in sync with the body rather than flipping.
How long does it take to fix a hook?
Simple set-up changes can make a difference immediately. Rotation and path changes may take a few weeks of practice. A lesson can speed things up.
The bottom line
A hook comes from a clubface closed to your swing path. Start with the simple things — a neutral grip, square alignment and correct ball position — then keep your body rotating through impact, tame an excessive in-to-out path and quiet overactive hands. Check your equipment, use drills and feedback, and play for your hook on the course while you fix it. With patience, that destructive hook can become a controlled, powerful draw.