The driver is the longest, lowest-lofted and least forgiving club in your bag — and the one most golfers would most like to hit well. A good drive sets up the whole hole: a short iron into the green, a realistic birdie chance, a relaxed walk down the middle of the fairway. A bad one can mean a lost ball, a penalty and a big number.
Many golfers struggle with the driver because they treat it like a long iron, swinging down on the ball, or because they try to hit it as hard as possible. Hitting a driver well requires a slightly different set-up and strike from your other clubs. Get those few things right and the driver becomes a weapon rather than a liability.
Why the driver is different
| Feature | Driver | Irons |
|---|---|---|
| Ball position | Opposite lead heel | Centre to slightly forward |
| Tee | High | On the ground (or low tee) |
| Strike | Slightly upwards | Slightly downwards |
| Shaft length | Longest | Shorter |
| Loft | Lowest (often 8–12°) | Higher |
| Goal | Distance with accuracy | Precision |
Because the driver has so little loft, a downward strike produces too much spin and too low a launch, costing distance and making the ball curve more. An upward strike launches the ball higher with less spin — the recipe for long, straight drives.
Step 1: Tee height
A common rule of thumb: tee the ball so that about half of the ball sits above the top edge of the driver face at address.
- Too low encourages a downward strike, low launch and too much spin.
- Too high can lead to pop-ups (the ball striking the top of the face).
Experiment slightly on the range to find what works for you.
Step 2: Ball position
Position the ball opposite the inside of your lead heel. This lets you strike the ball after the club has passed the bottom of its arc and started moving upwards.
A ball too far back encourages a downward strike, pushes and slices.
Step 3: Stance and posture
- Widen your stance — feet slightly wider than shoulder width — for stability with a long, fast swing.
- Tilt your spine slightly away from the target, so your lead shoulder is a little higher than your trail shoulder. This sets you up to swing upwards through the ball.
- Keep your weight slightly favouring your trail side at address — around 55–60%.
- Let your arms hang naturally, with your hands roughly in line with the ball or very slightly ahead.
Step 4: Aim and alignment
- Pick a specific target — a tree, bunker edge or point on the fairway — not just "the fairway".
- Set the clubface first, square to your target line.
- Align your feet, hips and shoulders parallel to that line.
- Use an intermediate target a few feet in front of the ball to help aim.
Step 5: The backswing
- Make a wide, one-piece takeaway, with the club, hands and arms moving together.
- Turn your shoulders fully — the longer club needs a full turn.
- Let your weight move into your trail side without swaying.
- Do not overswing. A controlled, full turn produces more speed than a long, loose swing. See how to improve your backswing.
Step 6: The downswing and impact
- Start the downswing from the ground up — a shift and turn of the lower body.
- Keep your head behind the ball through impact; this helps you swing upwards.
- Swing through the ball, not at it, letting the club sweep up off the tee.
- Release the club naturally and rotate your body towards the target.
Hitting up on the ball
The feeling is of the club sweeping the ball off the tee on a slightly upward path. Many golfers find it helps to feel that their head and upper body stay slightly behind the ball, with the lead shoulder rising through impact.
Step 7: The finish
Finish in balance with your weight on your lead foot, chest facing the target and the club over your lead shoulder. A balanced finish usually means a controlled swing.
Tempo: swing at 80%
The harder you try to hit the driver, the worse it usually goes. Tension slows the club and timing breaks down. Many of the longest hitters look as if they are swinging smoothly because their sequencing is efficient.
- Swing at around 80% of maximum effort.
- Focus on centred contact — a centred strike at 80% goes further than an off-centre strike at 100%.
- Count a rhythm — such as "one" on the backswing and "two" on the downswing.
For more on speed and distance, see how to hit the golf ball further.
Common driver faults and fixes
Slicing
The most common driver problem. Usually caused by an open clubface and an out-to-in path. See how to fix a slice.
Hooking
The ball curves sharply left — often a strong grip, closed face or stalled body rotation. See how to fix a hook.
Pop-ups (skying the ball)
The ball strikes the top of the face and flies very high and short. Causes include a steep downward strike and a tee that is too high. Fix: check ball position, tilt your spine away from the target and sweep the ball rather than chopping down.
Topped drives
The ball runs along the ground. Usually from lifting the body through impact or a ball position too far forward. See how to hit the ball solidly.
Low, spinning drives
Often from hitting down on the ball. Tee it higher, play it further forward and tilt away from the target.
Drills for better driving
The tee-behind drill
Place a second tee in the ground about a foot behind the ball on the target line. Swing without hitting the rear tee on the way down — it encourages a shallow, sweeping approach.
The tee-in-front drill
Place a tee a few inches in front of the ball. After striking the ball, try to clip the front tee too. It encourages swinging through the ball rather than at it.
Feet-together drives
Hit drives with your feet close together at 70% speed. It builds balance and centred contact.
Pause-at-the-top drill
Swing to the top, pause for a second, then swing through. It improves sequencing and tempo.
Strike-location check
Use foot spray or impact tape on the face to see where you strike the ball. Adjust tee height and posture to find the centre.
Driver equipment: getting it right
The right driver makes a big difference:
- Loft: most amateurs benefit from more loft than they think — often 10.5° or more for moderate swing speeds.
- Shaft flex and weight: should suit your speed and tempo. See golf shaft flex guide.
- Length: a slightly shorter shaft can improve control for many golfers.
- Adjustability: many drivers let you adjust loft, face angle and weighting.
- Forgiveness: larger, more forgiving heads help golfers who miss the centre.
A fitting with a launch monitor is the best way to find the right setup. See custom golf club fitting and how to choose golf clubs.
Tee-shot strategy
Hitting the driver well is only half the battle. Smart tee-shot strategy saves strokes:
Pick the right club
The driver is not always the best club off the tee. Consider a fairway wood, hybrid or iron when:
- The fairway narrows at your driving distance.
- Hazards sit in range of your driver.
- The hole doglegs and a driver would run through the fairway.
- You are struggling with the driver on the day.
See club selection.
Choose your side of the tee
Tee up on the side of the teeing area that gives you the most room for your usual miss. If you tend to slice, tee up on the right side and aim down the left; if you hook, do the opposite.
Aim away from trouble
Identify where the biggest trouble is — out of bounds, water, dense trees — and aim away from it. A miss into light rough is far better than a penalty.
Commit to the shot
Pick a target, make one practice swing and commit. Indecision causes poor swings.
A driver practice session
| Time | Activity |
|---|---|
| 5 minutes | Warm up with short irons |
| 10 minutes | Driver with drills (tee-behind, feet-together) |
| 10 minutes | "Fairway game" — define a fairway on the range and count hits out of ten |
| 5 minutes | Pre-shot routine on every shot, as on the course |
Read our driving range practice plan for more structure.
Frequently asked questions
How high should I tee my driver?
As a starting point, tee the ball so about half of it sits above the top of the driver face at address.
Should I hit up on the driver?
Yes. A slightly upward strike launches the ball higher with less spin, increasing distance and reducing curve.
Why do I hit my irons well but not my driver?
The driver requires a different set-up and an upward strike. Many golfers use their iron swing — a downward strike — with the driver, causing slices, pop-ups and low, spinning shots.
What loft driver should I use?
Many amateurs benefit from 10.5° or more. A fitting will confirm the best loft for your swing speed and launch.
Should I always use a driver off the tee?
No. Use the club that gives you the best chance of finding the fairway and a good approach. On tight holes, a fairway wood or hybrid can be smarter.
The bottom line
Hitting the driver well comes down to a few key differences from your irons: tee it high, play the ball forward, widen your stance, tilt away from the target and sweep up through the ball. Swing smoothly at around 80%, focus on centred contact and use drills to build a consistent strike. Combine a sound technique with the right equipment and smart tee-shot strategy, and you will hit more fairways, further — and set up better scores on every hole.
Popping it up? Read how to stop skying the driver.